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How to True a Wheel Place the wheel in a truing stand or bicycle frame. Starting at the valve hole, spin each nipple onto the spoke with the nipple driver or a flathead screwdriver until only 4 threads are still exposed. This should supply just enough tension to straighten all the spokes.
Spin the wheel. Adjust the truing indicators (or brake pad) so they barely brush the rim. Study the rim as it spins and decide which section needs to be moved. Use the spoke wrench to adjust the nipples in this area. It’s crucial during the early stages to gently bring the rim into true and round by loosening instead of tightening. For instance, to move the rim left, loosen spokes in the area leading to the right hub flange instead of tightening ones leading to the left. As the wheel straightens, bring the indicators closer to the rim and continue.
To correct vertical movement, adjust the truing indicator under the rim (if you’re using your bike frame for truing, rest your thumb on the brake in such a way that you can view the gap between it and the underside or top edge of the rim as the wheel spins). Work on flat spots first, loosening an even number of spokes in the area to allow the rim to move outward. Gently tighten an even number of spokes to bring down high spots.
If you let the truing indicator brush the underside of the rim, you’ll know when it’s perfectly round because it will stop scraping. If you prefer to sight the space between the indicator and rim, a light background will help. Place a piece of white paper on the workbench in your line of vision.
When the wheel is round move the indicators beside the rim and perfect lateral trueness again. Alternate correcting lateral and vertical movement, and flip the wheel occasionally to check rim centering. Eventually you should get a round, straight rim with low spoke tension.
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